Wednesday, January 4, 2012

hakone: a few hot springs and a sculpture garden

Hakone, Japan


I spent a month in Japan in 2009 and fell in love with this quirky country. Though it feels very western in so many ways- no square inch is missed as an opportunity for advertisement, men and women wear the trendiest of clothing, and there is a Denny's and 7/11 on every street corner in every major city-there are still things that felt extremely foreign to me.

One thing for instance is public bathing. In Japan it is popular to go to the public baths as a sort of spa (though I was told in Tokyo the public baths are strictly for men if you know what I mean). I visited the public baths in various places across Japan and always enjoyed it. The baths are gender-specific and usually contain local fresh hot spring water. Sometimes there are multiple baths with varying temperatures.

One has to shower before entering the baths to avoid contaminating the public waters. But, even in private Japanese homes, it is common that one has water drawn for a bath for the week for the entire family, and again, one showers before entering the bath to ensure the water stays clean for everyone else.

I traveled to a small village in the mountains called Hakone for a few days towards the end of my trip because it had been recommended as one of the top hot springs destinations in Japan. I've never been so relaxed in a foreign country where I cannot communicate in the native language as I was there (yes that is saying a lot). Waking up the beauty of the place was breathtaking enough, and it didn't hurt that I was staying at one of the oldest resorts in Japan, the Fujiya Hotel. And there are plenty of things to do in this small town besides visit the famous hot springs. One day I took lovely cable car ride to a tram ride to a boat ride across Lake Ashinoko, taking in the views of Mount Fuji along the way.

Hakone also has a lovely open air museum with an extensive collection of Western and Japanese artwork, including a sizable amount of Picasso pieces. Strolling through the sculpture garden, breathing in the mountain air, you'll wonder why anyone in Japan chooses to live in the city.
View from Lake Ashinoko

Mount Fuji

Graphic Art by a Japanese Artist at the Hakone Open Air Museum

the tree that escaped the crowded forest

Bartlesville, Oklahoma

Bartlesville,Oklahoma doesn't have much going for it these days. A few Sonic drive thrus, a mall housing fifteen or so chain stores, and a Walmart with an extensive gun department.

But that wasn't always so. Bartlesville was a booming oil town back in the day thanks to Frank Phillips, a barber turned oil industrialist, who set up the headquarters of Phillips 66 Petroleum in this small ranching town north of Tulsa. My father and his six brothers and sisters grew up in Bartlesville where their father was a geologist at Phillips. That is why I visit this town of 30,000 people in the middle of the country at least once a year.

This past New Year's we stayed in a hotel downtown and it was the first time I really took note of what a ghost town Bartlesville really is. Most of the storefront windows were vacant, boarded up, or had a 'for sale' sign slapped on the door. Even the Phillips (now Conoco-Phillips) buildings seemed half in use.

But one building does stand out and that is the Price Tower designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. Wright's one and only skyscraper was commission by Harold C. Price (another oil industrialist who owned a pipeline business). The tower was completed in 1956 intended for mixed use as office space and residential apartments. Shooting up to the sky with green-tinted copper planes glittering in the sun, a lonesome vertical masterpiece among the flat prairie lands of Oklahoma, Wright called it "the tree that escaped the crowded forest".

If for some reason you are ever passing through Bartlesville, Oklahoma, the Price Tower is a sight worth seeing. It is also worth a look inside the building and meandering around the arts center located on the lower floors. Bartlesville has the highest concentration of Frank Lloyd Wright architecture in the country as he designed several homes for the Price family in addition to the tower. Bartlesville, though a dying oil town, certainly has a unique place in the architectural history of America.